A Day in the Life

Okay, well maybe two. I’ve been back in Xela now about a week-and-a-half, and am enjoying my time here again. I’ve got some great friends here, and really do enjoy where I live and what I do. Including what happened last weekend.

A Guatemalan friend of mine who has a lot of interest in the religion of the Mayans brought his spiritual guide, Tata Pedro, to Xela for a two day event. Day one was a class on the Mayan Calendar, including its use of twenty Nahuales, which make up the twenty days of the calendar, which repeat in a cycle of 13 months. Each Nahual contains certain characteristics, holding importance both to people born on the individual day, as well as to any activities that might take place on that day. I found the information interesting, but a little much to take in, given the immense amount of information, plus the fact that it was all in Spanish. (I found I could translate the words but had trouble uniting them in any meaningful way). There’s great information about the Mayan Calendar on Wikipedia, and also on the Tzolk’in, or calendar used in Guatemala .  There’s also a nice presentation of the nahuales on the web page of a local magazine, Xelawho, prepared by my friend Pedro who organized the event.

The second day of the event, and the “day” mentioned in the title of this post, involved a trip up a mountain above Xela, called La Muella, or the Molar. La Muella was and is a sacred place for the indigenous religion of the region, with its mix of beautiful views, abundant plantlife, volcanic rock outcroppings and steam vents converted into saunas. The group who attended reunited Sunday morning, and after some time gathering materials, stuffed into taxis and cars to get to the trailhead for the hike up La Muella. The hike consists of first a short, easy walk up a trail to a soccer field used by locals of the neighborhood, which this day had a lone horse tied up and awaiting its owner as well. After the field, the trail arrives at a lower-down sacred point, marked by a large rock outcropping and a small shack constructed to allow volcanic steam to be used for saunas. The Tata entered to meditate and use the sauna; we stayed outside, with me doing a little of my own meditation. After this point, the trail heads up a rocky hill, requiring a fair bit of scrambling to reach the peak of the day’s journey, literally and figuratively.

The top of La muella is a small space, surrounded on all sides by rocks and with an amazing view of the valley which gives the 200,000+ residents of Xela their home. In this space we built a fire ring, which was then filled with wood, incense, garlic, sacred seeds and LOTS of colored candles. The candles represent various parts of life on earth, with for example, red representing the sun and black representing the sunset. I found the ritual significance of all the items and their variations to be beautiful. The ceremony went for about an hour and a half, consisting, to my ears anyway, of much giving thanks for the world around us, for our thoughts, for the lives that we live. All this being led by a man who has lived his whole life on Guatemala’s beautiful Lake Atitlan, in a small village named San Pedro. He is 65, never attended school, knows very little of reading or writing, speaks Spanish as a second language (the indigenous Tzu’tuhil as his first).  And yet he obviously knows SO much about the world. I’ve been to another ceremony, or banquete espiritual of his in the past, and more than anything they just cause me to feel.  Pure emotion. Something about his leading of the ceremony, as well as his spirit, really brings an amazing feeling to me, and also obviously to those around me.

Other parts of the ceremony include a ritual spiritual washing with branches and flowered natural perfume, and the ritual smoking of a cigar. At the end of the ceremony I felt very united with those around me, and unspeakably lucky to be where I am living the life that I am living. Afterwards we shared a traditional Guatemalan meal of Tamalitos de Chipilin (corn tamales with a green herb mixed in), refried black beans and fresh avocados. We walked down the hill, grabbed a taxi, and continued to spend the next hour or so enjoying what a Sunday in a public park can be - friends walking in and out and chatting, just enjoying a nice day in the sun.

Afterwards, met up with a new friend who I have been showing around Xela. I had hoped that we could go off adventuring somewhere, but given the lateness of the day that seemed impossible. However, after doing some walking and exploring we ran into another new friend of mine, who arranged for us to get a ride up another of Xela’s beautiful hills to talk and watch over the beautiful night lights of the city from a covered gazebo.

And so went one of the better days I have had in this town. Through the specialness of the banquete, the powerful feeling of friendship and the spontaneous adventure. Sorry for the long post, if anyone is still reading I hope to hear from people and be in touch. For those that I saw in California, it was great, for those that I didn’t I’m sorry and hope to see you all soon!

josh

Walking in the Suburbs

Back in California, I found myself walking the two two miles between the Pleasant Hill BART station near San Francisco, and my father’s house, ruminating on being the only walker on a completely non-commercial strip of what essentially amounts to highway. On a two week trip back to the US, I had an interesting time observing cultural and societal differences between Guatemala and California. That suburban walk was certainly a huge diversion from my ultra-urban life living in the center of Xela. Here, its impossible to leave the house without a few buenas dias to strangers, as well as the inevitable conversation with at least one person that I know. Obviously like an urban environment anywhere in the world, but it was a large difference in my trip.

I also noticed a marked difference in the social formalities exhibited by the two cultures. Here in Guatemala, at least in my experience, there is a large amount of what feels like genuine cultural nicety. As mentioned above, there is constant greeting on the streets, even to gringos in a neighborhood where the sight of is common. This as opposed to walking down the street and feeling resentment for being yet another traveler. Walking into and out of stores always comes with its own share of niceness, in greetings and goodbyes. All this combines to allow one to feel very welcomed into the place, as if in some way surrounded by friends. To me, getting back to LA was a marked contrast. There is of course a world of formality as well, but in some way it feels and looks SO much more forced. The attitudes of waiters and waitresses, that of store clerks. Its a subtle difference, but struck me nonetheless.

Other than that, I of course enjoyed the food cultures of LA and San Francisco. And the artistic culture, getting out to museums and photography shows and concerts and DJ events. All that is lacking pretty intensely here in the Guatemalan highlands, in no small part due to the cultural and intellectual genocide carried out here with the help of my very own government. But those thoughts can be saved for another post.

Guatemala Project Video

Hey all, a quick post to provide a link to a video documenting  some of the work done by the organization I work for, Partners in Solidarity.  Things are continuing to go well and I’ve been keeping myself busy.   I have lots of stories to tell and will be working on getting them up in the coming week. Lots of love!

Video Link

And some quick photo links

Continuing On to Tikal

After the last blog post I wrote, which had me in Xela for new years, I met my friend Sara in Antigua and we traveled around Guatemala for 8 days, after which we returned to Guatemala City for her to deliver a lovely concert of her Jazz singing at the Instituto Guatemalteco Americano, or I.G.A. Our trip took us through Antigua, the ruins at Tikal, Guatemala City, and two lakeside villages called Panajachel and San Marcos La Laguna. It was a whirlwind tour, and a nice way to see some places I have not had the chance to see yet.

Though I´d already been in Antigua, it was spectacular to see snow on the peaks of the volcanoes, an apparently very rare occurrence owing to a storm which had come the day before and wiped out power in most of the country. We also saw some neat ruins and spent some time walking around the town.

Being at Tikal, the most excavated (and most visited) of Guatemala´s Mayan ruins, is most interesting to me in relation to modern times. The site is in heavy jungle, and when found each ruin was just a mound covered in dirt and trees; the jungle had taken the city back over. Its truly incredible to view the remains of such a developed civilization that, which, due to circumstances beyond their control, they were forced to abandon. Walking through the city, its hard not to think about what our own cities would look like covered in earth and then excavated.

Sara and I chose to watch the sunrise there, a beautiful if difficult proposition due to the 3 AM alarm clock required to make it there on time. After a comical mid-drive encounter consisting of a flat tire, one broken lug nut and some broken tire hardware, we made our way to Tikal where we hiked for an hour through the jungle in the dark where we climbed Tikal´s Templo IV in relative silence. Aside form the view of the sunrise, which was rather subdued due to clouds, the best part about the sunrise tour is the sounds of the jungle waking up, including the growl of howler monkeys. We spent the first half of the day walking around Tikal, then returned to Flores, a tourist town on a lake which provides services to Tikal visitors. The highlight of that afternoon was probably Sara´s lunch, which was on the menu under carnes exoticos and consisted of grilled armadillo. yuck. After lunch, we spent some time at our hotel with a funny old lady who lived next door and hung out in the lobby. We talked to her, and she had spent her honeymoon (luna de miel, or moon of honey) years ago in Xela. She sang us the traditional song about Xela “Under the moon of Xelajú” then sent us on our way to the airport, where we flew back to Guatemala City.  In the next post I talk about our experiences in Guatemala City, then will go on to describe the rest of our trip.

San Cristobal, Mexico & New Years 2008

Here in Xela looking at the date today, its hard to belive its already halfway through January 2008. Its been a while since I wrote and I won´t try to describe everything I´ve done as its been a lot, but would like to highlight some things.

Just after Christmas I took a trip to San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico. Its a beautiful highland town, sorrounded by wooded mountains and populated with buildings of well preserved colonial style architecture. San Cristobal is in the Mexican state of Chiapas and was the site of a Zapatista takeover in 1994, though now feels much more like a tranquil tourist town than the site of a violent uprising. I spent a few days there in a nice French-owned hostel called Los Camellos. Mostly I explored, enjoyed being in a peaceful town, and ate lots of tacos.

I had two highlights there. The first was a visit to San Juan Chamula, an indigenous town about 20 minutes away from San Cristobal. I visited on Sunday, which is both market day and worship day. The market there is in the plaza directly in front of the church, thus the entire area is quite crowded. The worship in Chamula is a mix of ¨pre-conquest Maya customs, Spanish Catholic traditions, and subsequent innovations,¨ says Wikipedia. Essentially, there are no pews in the church, but instead a mass of people pushing forward or sorrounding candles on the floor sorrounded by wooden saints on the wall. Wikipedia has a good description well worth reading. It was intense being inside the church, literally trapped among thousands of people, breathing the incense.

The other highlight was a visit to a museum called Na Bolom which documentes the history of the indidenous Maya peoples of the La Selva jungle in Chiapas. Its a great museum with incredible photography and lovely grounds sorrounding it. Definitely worth the visit.

Though San Cristobal has a lot to offer, I found myself feeling somewhat disconnected from the place and from the hostel I stayed at. I decided to to take a bus back to Xela to spend new years eve at the hostel where I´ve been living, feeling like it was better to be with the friends that I have here than in a city by myself where I was starting to feel a tad bit lonely. So I took the 10 hour ride, along which I was very aware of the 1st world to 3rd world transition I made crossing the border back into Guatemala. The roads are in worse shape, the busses older and less comfortable, the houses poorer. I was reminded of the Manu Chao song Welcome to Tijuana, which has always reminded me of crossing the border from San Diego down into Tijuana, though this border corssing is a whole different type of transition. You can watch the video at youtube here : click. Manu Chao is espescially interesting as being the new Bob Marley of traveling, as I hear him in literally every hostel and every traveler oriented bar I go to (along with an uncanny amount of Guns and Roses).

New Years in Xela was nice, saw a live cuban band in a French restaurant and hung out at the hostel. No public celebration here, but tons of fireworks, including those we set off ourself in the street. It was cool looking around up at the hills above Xela and seeing the fireworks that people were setting off at their houses. I was glad to have spent the holiday back here in the town that feels more and more like home.

I think I´ll stop this post here and leave the next post to descrbe my travels around Guatemala with Sara Leib, my oldest friend and a great Jazz singer. Since that trip I´ve also seen some interesting developments in my volunteer work with Partners in Solidarity. Its quite interesting the what can happen when one chooses to travel without plans, more or less trying out what comes your way. I feel sometimes like I´m so at home here, and other times miss the states immensely and can´t quite figure out what I´m doing here. It really has been quite the learning experience though, learning a new language and figuring out how to get along in a new culture.

So for now, all done rambling and posting. I hope to be in touch with those that get these posts and hear about things back in your respective homes.

Cheers and with Love

Josh

Bonus post: Pepian Recipe

Greetings from Lake Atitlan, where I currently am staying in a lovely and small village called San Marcos. I´ll fill in some travel blanks soon, but for the meantime wanted to post the recipe for Pepian, a food I´ve mentioned a few times on the blog, and pictured in the photo album below.

(Recipe as recorded by my friend James)

You need:

• a cup or so of sesame seeds

• a cup or so of pepitorias; these look like greenish pumpkin seeds,but my Guatemalan friends assure me that they are not pumpkin seeds. However, according to a brief Google search, they are in fact pumpkin seeds. So I have no idea what they really are but pumpkin seeds wouldprobably work fine.

• 4 or 5 plum tomatoes

• a cup and a half of miltomates aka tomatillos

• a pound of green beans, de-stemmed

• a couple of big carrots, peeled

• 2 pounds of rice

• a couple of small pieces of cinnamon (something like three or four pieces, each roughly 1 cm by 3 cm)

• two kinds of dried chile: chile pasa, a black chile that looks like a raisin (thus the name) and chile guaque. You need a small piece of each type of chile, something like a 3 cm slice of each.

• cumin

• black pepper

• a loaf of bread

• some kind of broth; we did it with chicken broth on one night and beef broth on another night, but it would also work with vegetarian broth.

Cooking Instructions

1. Toast the sesame seeds until they’re golden
2. Toast the pepitorias until they’re golden
3. Toast the entire loaf of bread.
4. In a dry saucepan, heat the tomatillos until they’re somewhat soft and blackened, but not so much that they lose their shape.
5. In a dry saucepan, heat two of the plum tomatoes, the cinnamon, and the chiles. You should cut the chiles and the cinnamon up into smaller pieces so they cook better. This step takes a long time and you will think you’re burning the chiles, as they’ll give off a toxic smoke. Don’t worry; they’ll be done when they’re completely blackened and look like they’re charcoal. The cinnamon should be somewhat blackened and the tomatoes somewhat blackened (but, again, it shouldn’t lose its shape).
6. Mix all of the above except the bread, plus the black pepper and cumin. Blend a cup at a time in a blender, adding water or broth as needed to help it blend. After blending each batch, strain it into a pot using a sieve. Use extra water or broth to extract more of the sauce from the stuff in the sieve. You’ll need to scrape the sieve with a spoon to make sure all the sauce gets through. When it’s all strained, you should have a sort of sandy mush in the sieve and asmooth, nutty sauce in the pot. Discard the sandy mush part.
7. Mash the toasted loaf of bread with enough broth to make it into mush, but not a liquidy mush. Blend the bread mush, put it in the pot, and stir it well. This is the pepian sauce. Let it simmer for a while, stirring occasionally.
8. (This can be done in parallel.) Chop the green beans, carrots, and the remaining tomatoes. Put them in a large pot with some oil and heat over a high flame. When they’re cooked, throw in the rice (yes, that’s dry rice) and stir constantly. After several minutes the rice should become golden brown. Add an appropriate quantity of water and a good amount of salt, cover the pot and allow it to simmer until the rice has absorbed all the water.
9. I served it with an additional salsa of chiles, garlic, onion, lime, cilantro, and salt; I think it adds a welcome kick.

Christmas

 Writing now with yet another holiday post, after a nice two days spent celebrating Christmas in different ways.  I started out in a pueblo called Pasac Segundo, in a municipality called Cantel which is just outside of Xela.  Its more or less the countryside, populated by indigenous people, mostly Quiche.  I went out there to spend Noche Buena, or Christmas Eve, with a family that works with the volunteer organization I work with.  Quite a different experience than Im used to in so many ways.  There are kids everywhere, and the family working on preparing a typical dinner.  We made a traditional item called Pache, which on Christmas consists of a Rice Flour concoction, chicken or steak in a tomato sauce, and a raisin, all wrapped in a banana leaf and baked.  Yum.

We also had a fresh turkey, which my friend Mateo helped to kill and pluck. Ive never seen an animal killed before, let alone eaten it the same day.  It was really good, and we ate it in a sauce called Pepian which i mentioned earlier on this blog.   The family was incredibly welcoming to us, and I had various conversations about all types of things with the family and their various kids and grandkids.  At midnight, the tradition is to light fireworks, or bombas, and this was crazy.  Lots of young kids, running around without supervision, lighting fireworks.  Beautiful, also quite scary.  And so different from something that most people in the States would allow.  At one point, the two year old girl in the picture below was pointing a sparkler directly at me…

Christmas day I spent with some friends I have made locally, on the roof of a building, eating, listening to music and enjoying the sunshine.  They are good folks, teachers, djs, an internet cafe owner. Its good to know people in a town who are the same types of people I would know at home.  They made me feel very welcome as well.  Afterwards, I was the Bee Movie, overdubbed in Spanish, sans subtitles or the voice of Jerry Seinfeld. Not quite the same as home, but a nice Christmas Day Activity.

Otherwise, life continues in Xela. I made a great Pepian with the people at my hostel and a local woman that works there, have been speaking Spanish a lot and continuing to work on my projects.  Ive been on some nice hikes, heard some nice Cuban Son music, shared lots of music and had some fun nights out.  Guatemala continues to feel quite comfortable, though tomorrow I leave to Chiapas, Mexico to explore a bit, spend NewYears Eve, and, of course, eat some tacos.

I sincerely wish everybody happy holidays of the various types, and of course Happy New Years.  As always, please keep in touch, it warms my heart to hear from my friends and famly back home.

Adios y que se vaya bien!

Josue.

Chanukah!

Well, is looks like htis is going to be another holiday post.  Not that that´s a bad thing.  Time continues to  pass in Xela, with things going along quite well. The major events of the past week or so have been a great Chanukah celebration, continuing to work with Partners in Solidarity (see previous post), DJing and further exploring my Spanish and getting to know this city.

Starting with Chanuklah, another Jewish girl and myself sought out to present Chanukah to about 30 people, none of whom were Jews. We found a Chanukiah & candles, made latkes, explained the story in Spanish and sang songs. It was really great to be able to share my own culture with others, as I am in another country learning and exploring their culture. I left the experiecne feeling really happy to have my Jewish culture, and happy to be among good people here in Xela in the abscence of my friends and family at home. At the end of the night, the 14 year old son of the family who hosted the party song some songs in Spanish and danced, which was incredible.

I have also continued my work with Partners in Solidarity, the organization I work for now which donates computers to rural schools and teaches how to repair and maintain them. Last week, we went to an inaguration party for a school that was opening up its computer labs. That was a neat experience to see how much respect they gave to the organization and how much it meant to them to the computers. We ate a communal meal of tamales made with Rice instead of corn - delicious.

Its great work, and on Thrursday I went out to the municipality of Cantel to view the family’s home where the organization stores their computers and recieves a lot of community support. A great family, we ate brocoli and rice with Tamalitos and played with the kids. Also took a drive around to some of the schools. They are truly isolated, and it feels great to bring them the computers and share what has always been so readily accesible to them. We’re also discussing a plan of bringing internet to some or all of these schools, which is exciting. Today, I hepled teach a three hour class on troubleshooting and maintaining computers. I gave a 30 minute presentation on the internal parts of the computer, and afterwards helped to explain troubleshooting processes and the BIOS. Quite great again to share this knowledge. One of the people presesnt invited us to a wedding next weeked, which should be a nice cultural exchange. We will also share Christmas with the family in Cantel.

Here in Xela, I’ve befriended some folks, both a DJ from DC and a local DJ, and have had the opportunity to DJ twice already, at a party and at a lounge, even getting paid. Its great to have music and software with me that facilitates these friendships and allows me to work even here in Xela. Its a great way to get involved, and meet local people who truly share my interests.

So, that is the current update. I hope to travel to Lago Atitlan for a few days tomorrow, then come home to Xela to teach another class on Chanukah to English students, and see some traveling saint statues at the family’s home in Cantel. I really enjoy being able to leave behind the normal tourist paths and get to know some of the local culture, which is the main reason I am still in Xela and not traveling about.

I’m sitting now in my hostel bed, listening to the pretty, if stale, sounds of a Marimba concert outside my window and nursing a bit of a stomach bug. I hope that all are well and look forward to hearing any stories from back home.

All my love.

Thanksgiving!

My time here in Xela since Thanksgiving has truly been a time to give thanks, through some ups and some downs.  Starting with Last Thursday, Thanksgiving, when I had a wonderful potluck dinner with some other American folks away from home and a few locals as well.  Eating chicken (not turkey but almost), potatoes, gravy, FRESH salads, and baked mac’n'cheese was really incredibly after subsisting off of a cheap Guatemalan diet for a while.  The dinner was with some nice folks affiliated with a volunteer organization here in Xela called Entremundos and I really did feel quite at home.  The next day, I moved out of the local family’s house and into a rental room in search of a little more privacy and my own (relative) choice of food.  This was just in time to get my things ready to go on an overnight backpacking trip to the volcano Tajamulco, which is the highest point in Central America.

I Went with  a local group called Quetzaltrekkers, made up of volunteers who donate money to a local school for street children.  The trip was with two friends from school and  about 20 other people.  We woke up at 4:30 am on Saturday morning to take a pickup-truck ride to the bus station, where we took a chicken bus to a halfway point.  There we ate breakfast and continued on another bus.  We started hiking around 10am and arrived near the top of the volcano around 3:30.  It was really an ideal situation; there was an Israeli guy with us who brought a whole coffee kit onto the mountain & I had a little scotch.  We did some yoga on the mountain while a rainbow was visible below.  Afterwards, we hiked up to slightly below the peak and watched what was truly the most magnificent sunset of my life.  Being so high above the clouds was spectacular; the shapes and the colors mind blowing.  Afterwards was a nice night of card playing and we went to bed at 7:15 in anticipation of waking the next morning at 3:30 for the sunrise.  Another spectacular experience, though incredible cold on top Central America at 4:30 in the morning.  I really enjoyed the opportunity to hike up there and Quetzaltrekkers did a great job of leading the trip.

Since then I have been studying and enjoying my time here in Xela.  Its very easy to feel at home here and I definitely feel the pull to stay here for some time, though am not at all sure how long that is yet.  I will be doing some volunteering, which started today with a trip to a computer lab in a rural community just outside of Xela.  The school was inaugurating the lab which had been setup by Partners in Solidarity  which is the organization that I’ll be working with.  Its amazing to see the technological junk of the US relished by communities here which would otherwise not have computers to learn on or about.  The community the school is located in is only 1.5 km outside of Xela but lacks paved roads and potable water.  Quite a contrast to the city I’m living in now so close by.

 I am going to take a week off of school next week to relax and hopefully do some traveling.  After three weeks of 25 hrs studying I’m ready for a little break from learning and would like to continue building my Spanish through practice with local speakers.  I will probably continue with private lessons (which are SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper) when I get back to Xela and before I set off again.  I’ve been on-again/off-again sick and have spent a lot of time looking for good places to live - but otherwise things really are nice here.

 You are all in my thoughts and I look forward to being in touch and hearing about how things are back home.

Xela

I have now been here in Xela since Thursday night, and am actually becoming busy and developing somewhat of a routine.  Last week I chose a language school named the Proyecto Linguistico, or PLQ (link), and signed up to start Monday.  Choosing a school was hard as there are probably 50 to choose from, all which offer essentially the same thing.  Howver, the PLQ is a non-profit cooperative that focuses on the social issues in the past and current lives of Guatemalan people, of which there are many.  It seemed to me the best way to gain an understanding of what the lives of locals are and have been like.  So far, I think its been the right choice.  Sunday night I moved in with a local family, where I have my own bedroom with a double bed , TV and small table.  The family is Mom, Dad, a 7 year old son, a 17 yeard old son and a 19 year old daughter, plus many other people rotating in and out.  Meals are eaten with some or all of them depending on the time and the day.  None of them speak English so its a great time to practice my Spanish.  Sometimes they don´t say much and watch TV, but I have been able to speak a fair amount with them and feel quite at home at the house.  If only the water were hotter…

 I am about to start my third day of school, which consists of five hours of one on one instruction with a teacher.  We converse a lot, and also do exercises practicing verbs and vocabulary.  I.m remembering a lot, but the practice is very important.  I´m really pleased at how fast my Spanish is coming back and how much I am able to speak with people.  There are also conferencias at the school where locals come in and discuss topics from the present and the past.  Yesterday we learned about the situtation in Guate´s liberal colleges during the 80´s, which was marred by violence and repression.  Quite a sad situation and one that made me think a lot about how different attending college is these days, espescially back in the states.  Everybody here has a story, so many of which are heartbreaking. The amazing thing is that when they tell the stories, they come out as quite normal and my reactions almost seem out of place.  So bascially, being here in the school and with the family is allowing me a chance to see the culture here from a more involved place than traveling form place to place usually allow for.

 Xela itself is pretty large and located in the Guatemalan highlands.  The sorroundings are beautiful, though the town is rather decrepit and full of diesel fumes.  I do like it here a lot.  The central park of the the town is a bizarre remnant of German occupation, feeling like a European square that somebody forgot about with many faux Romanesque details.  There´s some good food here, though mostly now I am eating meals with my “family”.  Today I went to a town called Almolonga, which is the wholesale vegetable market for the area and walked through fields.  Afterwards we took a hot spring bath in a small room from natural hot springs.

One more interesting thing was that last Friday night, in the Casa Argentina where I was staying, I had a Shabbat dinner that was cooked up by 18 Israeli people.  It was very homey and great to be invited.